You can't get just cheese at Fromage any more. What used to be an informal light-lunch place is now a moderately-priced continental restaurant, complete with menus and table service. The front counter and cafeteria line have been replaced by more tables, so you can no longer ogle the quiches, salads and desserts before choosing; omelettes are served by waiters instead of being announced by a French-accented voice from the kitchen.

The menu and the style have changed, but the quality of the food remains excellent. The emphasis has shifted from quiches, salads and bread and cheese to higher-priced full meals like boeuf bourguignon, canard a l'orange and mussels. You can still find the familiar fluffy cheese omelettes and quiches, but they now come with Fromage's distinctive salad, rice, bread and butter and coffee or tea. The only other cheese dish Fromage still offers is cheese fondue, a bargain at $5.50 for two.

Prices for entrees range from $2 to $3.95, with deserts priced at 65 cents to $1.25. Fromage still lacks a liquor license, but you can bring your own wine or enjoy the terrific lemonade. Altogether, Fromage--with its red-checkered tablecloths and white-washed walls--is a fine place for Francophiles, and anyone else, to dine well and inexpensively.

Acropolis

1680 Mass Ave

Unlike most Greek-American restaurants, the food at the Acropolis captures the essence of Greek cuisine. Without resorting to over-spicing or floating the food in grease the Acropolis relies on the simple yet delicious lemon and egg, and tomato sauces to bring out the natural flavor of the meat dishes. The variety plate of hors d' oeuvres for $2.50 for two is an excellent beginning, but the spinach pie baked with strudel leaf and feta cheese, along with saganaki, fried cheese with egg batter are also good choices.

Though the food stays clear of the usual pretenses, the decor is overdone and loud, a far cry from the simple atmosphere found in restaurants in Greece. Ten dollars for two (including appetizers, desert coffee and drinks) should suffice for your exploration of Greek cuisine, enhanced by tapes of Greek music and excellent service by waiters who are mostly of Greek origin and know all about the food they serve.

As You Like It

1326 Mass Ave

The only distinctive thing about As You Like It is a fruit salad that boasts eight fresh fruits, including watermelon, even in the dead of winter. Aside from that, all the menu offers are some mediocre sandwiches and salads, a few fairly high-priced main dishes, and cutesy quotations from the Bard of Avon.

But the restaurant does have the advantages of a convenient location and a wide selection of breakfast dishes, which are served at all hours. You can almost always be sure of finding an empty table, and if you're lucky you can get one overlooking the continuous parade on Mass Ave.

The service is generally efficient and the decor inoffensive if nondescript. All in all, As You Like It is a convenient place for a cup of coffee or a quick meal, but there are plenty of other restaurants around the Square that offer a lot more than convenience.

Hilles

At Hilles Library

Lightning probably won't strike the top of Hilles Library and you probably won't meet the Harvard or Radcliffe life mate of your dreams there. But the Hilles Coffee Shop is full of library users taking a study break, and God knows they aren't attracted exclusively by the food--which is pretty skimpy. Ice cream, prepackaged cookies and brownies, doughnuts, and other standard House grill fare is about all that is offered. Hilles is a much nicer library than Lamont, and the Coffee Shop on the top floor is just one of the reasons. It's a nice place to go for a study break, but you'd have to be pretty desperate actually to go there for anything else.