282 Concord Ave.

The servings aren't large at Lucky Gardens, but otherwise the restaurant is a winner. It's small and always crowded. Reservations are accepted and it's a good idea to make them because the wait can be a long one. In fact, if you're going in a group of six or more, definitely call first.

The service is exceptionally pleasant--the waiters and waitresses are generally eager to explain the more unusual dishes. One of the best of these is Eight Treasure Chicken. Actually, everything we've ever tried there has been adequate at the very least and usually it's much better than that. The egg rolls are on the smallish side, and there are no accompanying sauces.

The majority of the selections are Szechuan specialities, which means they are spicy, but there is a Cantonese side of the menu. The egg drop and wonton soups are nothing special, but the sweet and sour pork is. Otherwise, we would recommend that you try the more exotic offerings instead of the traditional chow meins, etc.

Wine is not offered but every meal is served with an unlimited pot of tea. Lemon and sugar do not exist. This is a Chinese restaurant, not merely Chinese style. Knives and forks, however, are available on request The prices are very reasonable--remember though, the portions are smaller than the usual Chinese entree size.

Chez Jean

1 Shepard St.

Chez Jean is tucked away down from the main stream of traffic, nestled near the Quad. It's an innocuous looking place, with a maitred' struggling hard to give an air of haute cuisine by insulting student types who wander in dressed informally. If you go in jeans be prepared to act snobby--otherwise you won't get decent service.

The service is nothing to boast about, even if you're dressed by Laurent--there aren't enough waiters to do a really good job. Usually though, the place isn't too crowded, which is indicative of the food: poor to mediocre. It's also way overpriced. The menu is rather limited. There are the usual French entrees, and the coq au vin is the best of the bunch. The bread is always dry, the desserts often stale, the vegetables are boring and overcooked--and for all of this you're lucky to get out for eight bucks.

The atmosphere is really the only redeeming quality. The tablecloths are always beautifully crisp and white, and the lighting is soft.

Otherwise Chez Jean is the kind of place parents take Quad-residing freshmen because it's near, and because they don't know better.

The Midget

1712 Mass Ave

The Midget (up near the Quadrangle) is best at preparing the kind of food usually available from delicatessens. Although this Jewish style deli is not in the same league as Katz's Delicatessen on New York's lower east side (and it's not Kosher), in the Harvard Square area the Midget is probably the closest you'll come to a decent corned-beef-on-rye with a side order of kishka. The triple decker "College Sandwiches" are well worth their prices, and bagels with cream cheese and lox are available (a rarity in this town). The adjoining maxi bar and lounge is comfortable and its drinks are served at reasonable prices.

La Crepe