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From its name to its roots, Cambridge’s Puritan & Company is all New England, all the time. The restaurant is an ode to everything local — the space got its name from the Puritan Cake Company, which stood in Inman Square from the 1930s to the 1950s, and the menu is meant to honor the New England region. Additionally, while the restaurant is primarily run by owner-chef Will Gilson and general manager Chris Yorty, the space is also co-owned by Eugenia Huh ’04 and her husband Ming-Tai Huh, an MIT graduate. From local co-owners to a focus on quality ingredients sourced from nearby farms, Puritan & Company has a comforting New England vibe. But it's not just the history of the place that’s important — the food and atmosphere of the restaurant are tasty and tasteful, and they feel like an appropriate nod of respect to the Northeast.
It’s easy to feel calmed by the restaurant’s atmosphere. Eclectic and vaguely hipster decor surrounds the place — from patterned diner booths to golden light bulbs dangling from the ceiling encased in classically millennial Mason jars. Beyond these quirks, the space feels comforting and calm, with soft, warm lighting and lots of wood furnishings. The sense of comfort also translates into customer service experience — the servers at Puritan & Co. are helpful and kind, and all are equipped to explain the ingredients and sources of all the menu items.
A perfect way to begin a New England-centric meal at Puritan & Company is with their Park House rolls, which arrive warm and buttery. These types of rolls — which originated at Boston’s Parker House hotel, now called the Omni Parker House, in the 19th century — are a favorite on New England fine dining menus, and Puritan and Company doesn’t disappoint. The rolls arrive glistening with butter and salt, with a perfectly piped serving of cultured butter adding to the presentation of the dish. The large flakes of sea salt liberally topping the bread may overwhelm some patrons’ palates, but the warmth of the rolls and overall flavor make the richness worth it. However, keep in mind that for five dollars, you only receive two rolls — a lack of complimentary bread to start the meal may also leave some customers craving more.
The salty decadence of this appetizer leads well into another star on Puritan & Company’s menu — the crab cavatelli. This plate of pasta arrives enveloped in a delectable haze of smell — the cheesiness and lemony flavors hit your nose before you take your first bite. Fish-forward and full of citrus, the cavatelli is a must-try on the menu. A riot of textures — soft cheese, firm pasta, flaky crab, and crunchy Calabrian breadcrumbs — makes every bite engaging. It’s also incredibly filling — there is a fair amount of crab incorporated into the dish, and most patrons will leave their entree with a full stomach — something that isn’t always guaranteed in modern fine dining experiences. The cavatelli dish is an ode to New England’s rich seafood that shouldn’t be missed.
The dessert menu at Puritan & Company is seasonal, but most options are cold and help balance out the warmth and richness of the restaurant’s main courses. On our visit, the dulce de leche flan proved to be an excellent choice. This custard was infused with deep notes of orange and may remind some of a luxury creamsicle. Large flakes of sea salt top the dessert, providing a savory balance to the sweet caramel sauce. While the dessert was small, it was rich and worth every bite, with a smooth texture that avoided the graininess to which flan dishes are vulnerable.
Puritan & Company acknowledges New England flavors, ingredients, and dishes in its menu, and it pays homage to the region well. Everything is fresh, filling, and homey, as Northeastern food should be. The restaurant balances both types of taste — flavor and good quality — in its offerings to great avail, and should be a staple of Cambridge dining for years to come.
—Staff writer Hannah E. Gadway can be reached at hannah.gadway@thecrimson.com.
