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A neighborhood is defined by its restaurants — the places where its residents can gather over a feast and enjoy a good meal with friends. The atmosphere of North Cambridge, one of Cambridge’s 13 distinct neighborhoods, is perhaps best encapsulated by the cozy Sugar & Spice, a Thai restaurant sitting in Porter Square. Over 17 years old, the reliably delicious and well-portioned Sugar & Spice should be your go-to Thai spot in Cambridge.
The restaurant’s interior is no-frills, small — if also somewhat cramped — and cozy. A wall of windows faces the bustling Massachusetts Ave. and fills the dining space with natural light. The servers are quick to get diners seated, but beware that the small dining room can fill up quickly — a scary reality when there are no reservations past 5:45 p.m. Despite occasional wait times, the interior makes patrons feel welcome in its homey atmosphere.
It is a bit easy to get lost within the digital menu — a tiny QR code pasted onto the establishment’s tables leads you to a sprawling list that includes a wide variety of noodle, rice, and curry dishes. Nevertheless, certain dishes are must-tries during any visit.
A great way to start any meal at Sugar & Spice is with their summer rolls, which bring a refreshing burst of flavor to the meal. The rolls combine steamed shrimp, seasoned tofu, bright herbs like cilantro and basil, and a variety of raw, crunchy veggies in a thin rice paper. An umami-forward soy-based sauce, which is dotted with shards of peanuts, comes alongside the rolls. Summer rolls are, by their nature, vegetable-forward and chewy, so the salty sauce brings a needed balance. In Sugar & Spice’s take on the summer roll, the seasoned tofu is the star of the show. Braised in a savory-sweet coating, the tofu eclipses all the other components of the roll.
Another star starter is the Thai veggie dumpling, which arrives steaming hot from the kitchen. This appetizer of two sizable pan-fried dumplings is a mixture of a scallion pancake and a more recognizable fried dumpling. The outside is crispy, while the inside is soft, fluffy, and almost paste-like, with a scallion-forward taste and a lovely texture. Although two dumplings may appear measly when they arrive at the table, patrons will soon find that they are extremely filling. This dish’s only disappointment is its dipping sauce, which is simply a bowl of soy sauce. Eating a large dumpling that mostly consists of scallion can be a bit monotonous, so a touch of spice — like a chili dipping sauce — would take this appetizer over the edge into absolutely wicked deliciousness.
No matter how delicious the appetizers are, the entrees are what keep people coming back to Sugar & Spice. The restaurant serves affordable and sizable portions of Thai favorites, including enormous soups and rice dishes.
The pad Thai is an obvious go-to, but besides this American favorite, a gem on Sugar & Spice’s menu is the “Pad See You.” This dish consists of wide stir-fried rice noodles, well-seasoned chicken, Chinese broccoli, and bits of fried egg and carrots. The noodles hit the sweet spot between seared and chewy, and every bit of the dish is seasoned beautifully in a thick, garlicky, yet sweet sauce.
Another highlight is the pineapple fried rice, which is tinged bright yellow with curry powder flavoring and arrives piled high with crispy chicken. Filling and delicious, this dish elevates plain fried rice to a new level. Both of these options are huge portions of food — perfect for college students on a budget.
Sugar & Spice is comfortable, reliable, and well-priced, with delicious food that won’t damage your bank account. The menu is expansive and caters to all moods, the ingredients are fresh, and patrons will never leave hungry. Although its menu and aims aren’t groundbreaking, Sugar & Spice is everything that a neighborhood restaurant needs to be. It is a North Cambridge favorite for a reason, and it should be yours, too.
—Staff writer Hannah E. Gadway can be reached at hannah.gadway@thecrimson.com.
