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Portuguese Restaurateurs Finds Lack in the U.S.

Although Melo's English is now flawless, and his children "understand more than they speak," Melo still keeps the television above the counter tuned to a Portuguese station.

Pizzeria As-Ilhas has the standard fare of any pizzeria--pizza, subs, calzones and pasta--but Melo also experiments with Portuguese fare.

"Cambridge has a big Portuguese population; I try to mix Portuguese [into the menu]," he says.

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On weekends, Melo showcases his love for Portuguese cuisine with a rotating menu.

Common Portuguese dishes include cod and other fish and meats, with seasonings of distinctive spices, olive oil and hot pepper.

Some of the rotating dishes include bacalhau, a codfish stew with potatoes, onions, garlic, green pepper and spices, smothered in olive oil and vinegar; polvo, an octopus dish with potatoes, onions, and red and white wine; and alcatra, which includes big chunks of beef, pepper corns, smoked bacon, onions, tomatoes, and red wine, placed in a clay pot and baked for three hours.

Melo says he learned his traditional recipes from his mother and grandmother, but he adds his own flair. "Everybody has a secret," he says.

He has found that owning a small restaurant is a lot of work--since Pizzeria As-Ilhas's opening, he has only taken time off on Wednesdays, when he leaves work at 1 p.m. The rest of the week, he is behind the counter or over the stove.

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