The RN number for this jacket, rather than listing a spot in China, turns up a company in Lenexa, called "Winning Ways.''

Joerger says Gear has every intention of releasing information about its factories to universities, who will likely release it to the public. Gear is now compiling a database of factory locations sorted by university or college in preparation for the January release.

Constructing the database is difficult, Joerger says, because the company pays other parties to make its goods, and its sources frequently change depending on who gives the lowest price and highest quality.

Sometimes, a particular style is made in multiple factories, which could be located in different countries, he says. Moreover, he says factories do not assemble clothing from scratch, but instead get parts from other factories.

"Many times you'll source the buttons from one factory," he says. "The sewing may occur in a different factory."

He argues that contracting out manufacturing does not mean the company cannot enforce working standards. Gear, he says, keeps in touch with its factories and holds them to its standards.

"Any reputable manufacturer is going to have a close relationship with [its contractees]," he says.