In 1996, he made it a reality.

At the time, he says, it was unique in the United States, though copies have since cropped up.

Still, this room remains the chief source of cheese for virtually every restaurant in Boston, as well as restaurants all over the country, particularly in New York and San Francisco. In addition, the store has just begun a burgeoning mail-order business.

It's clear that Gurdal knows his stuff, and that the cheese cave is his baby--"a labor of love," as he is fond of calling it.

As part of his presentation to the Montral culinary guild, Gurdal explains the considerations that go into cheese aging.

For example, certain cheeses naturally have cheese mites on their rinds. Those cheeses must be stored on the lowest shelves, or the mites will jump onto the mite-free cheeses.

Gurdal and his staff tend the cheeses, brushing mites off weekly, cleaning the wheels as needed, tasting them if they are nearing their prime.

At any given time, the store carries between 300 and 400 varieties.