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Sailing Away to Buffetville

POSTCARD FROM THE VIRGIN ISLANDS

There are no frozen daiquiris. There are only pretty sunsets, friendly people and damn good cheeseburgers.

Welcome to Coral Bay, St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands, where they'll keep your beer mug full, but they don't take American Express.

In fact, folks down here gave up credit cards long ago. You see, this is Jimmy Buffet territory, where people sick and tired of paying bills and answering phones anchor their sailboats for a night.

Those anchors never come up.

Forget the cocktails on Tortola and the snorkeling off Virgin Gorda. They were great. But on our sail around the Virgin Islands, the cozy night in Coral Bay was second to none.

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We thought about leaving our anchor down for good. However, we figured the folks from the sailboat charter company were a little better at finding runaway clients than the creditors from up north. We were lucky enough to have one night in this peaceful place.

As we pulled into Coral Bay's little harbor at dusk, we knew right away it was Buffetville. No other charter boats in sight. As we weaved our way around other vessels searching for good anchorage, we noticed animals scampering around some of the boats.

These weren't boats. These were people's homes.

One couple stood up on deck, watching as the newcomers floated by.

"Let out a lot of chain so you don't have to worry!" yelled the woman, stroking her chubby cat. "It's pretty good anchorage here...good solid mud."

That mud had certainly held her boat in place for a good, long while.

Good place to eat around here, we asked, trying not to sound like tourists.

"Skinny's--right over there," she responded, pointing to a shack on land. "Best burgers and sandwiches around."

Considering that Skinny Legs Restaurant boasted the only dinghy dock in town and that our fish and steak were frozen to the bottom of our boat's fridge, we decided to follow the advice.

As we sat down to dine, Skinny's regulars tried to hide the fact that they wondered who the hell we were. They were new in town at one time too.

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