Berry also says that Harvard's payroll is the highest of any college food service in the country--paying $13 an hour for a "minimum wage industry."

Berry's strategies for smoothing relations with his staff include keeping them involved in decisions--like choosing the style of their new "more modern" uniforms. And he has established two new committees this year, one to field questions on health, safety and workload issues and another to reward employees for outstanding service.

Still, the enthusiasm for Berry among his staff is not likely to match that of the students body.

Hanging in his office is a picture of the class of 1991, a gift presented to Berry at Commencement last spring.

Saying that Berry contributed to the quality of senior life the way no one else could have, the class brought Berry before the crowd of 40,000 gathered in the Yard.

And even though he acknowledges a sometimes problematic relationship with the union, Berry says his priority list has students--"my customers"--at the top.

"We really do impact the quality of overall campus life, and we can impact it for better or for worse," he says. "We can be excellent if we want."

This year, Berry says, top-ranked chefs from area hotels and restaurants will visit Harvard dining halls to prepare special dinners and to instruct the HDS staff on novel cooking techniques.

In the future, Berry says, he will work on "redoing the freshman experience." Other changes may include increasing self-service in the dining halls--and moving employees out from behind the counter.

"We're not dealing with gluttons," he says, countering the argument that self-service could mean added waste and expense.

"We need...other niceties like having someone come to the table and ask whether you want more coffee or cookies."

"It's a whole different mindset from traditional institutional feeding," Berry adds.

Next year, HDS will open or take over the management of five restaurants on campus, including the Science Center's Greenhouse Cafe.

And The Greenhouse, already a common student stopover between classes, may add another twist to its service next year--delivering pizza to Harvard buildings and student dorms.

In addition, the mandatory 21 meals-per-week plan--a common target of student complaints--may also go in a few years. Berry has met with students to discuss the viability of a 14 meals-per-week plan, with additional meals served on a pay-as-you-go basis.