There actually was a cute little pig on Maupiti. It lived in a pen behind Mama Roro's, and on the third day we were there it was served for dinner in honor of a son's wedding. Accompanied by a delicious sweet squash dish, it was the best meal I have ever eaten in my entire life.

The island's sole industry is the production of copra, dried coconut meat that is collected by a freighter once a month and taken to the main island to be pressed for its oil. All over the island copra is spread on racks to dry in the sun, producing an inescapable smell of warm suntan oil.

After generations of French colonial rule, the islanders have become dependent on the outside world for most of their food and supplies. Though their diet continues to rely heavily on fish and fruit, they have also begun to appreciate Coca Cola ("le Coca") and bubblegum. Once a week people gather at the tiny airport to greet the plane that carries the week's supply of baguettes.

Another thing about the smaller Tahitian islands: you shouldn't drink the water there. Or at least, I shouldn't have. And neither should my mother, or the Canadians, because we all rapidly fell victim to a mysterious disease later tentatively identified as Dengue fever. (The Germans were spared because they drank only beer.)

My case lasted longer than the others'. After staying in bed for six days and losing 15 pounds, I felt well enough to climb on board an Air Polynesie prop plane to return to Papeete. There were a few days left before our return flight, and I wanted to spend that time eating well, relaxing and resting up from my ordeal.

We went to Club Med. They had a beach there