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Vermont's Best White Powder

A FIVE-MOUNTAIN SKI ODYSSEY

The large size can be daunting. When skiing with a group of different-ability skiers, figuring out which of the seven base lodges to meet at for lunch is confusing. Additionally, the grooming at the mountain seemed a little haphazard. While mountain officials would probably claim that they like to let the moguls build up, the trails could have been kept in better shape.

If Stratton caters to the chic and fashion conscious, Killington caters to the single skier who likes to party. With more bars per person than any other ski area, the mountain complex is a college student's dream come true.

While all other areas scramble for a piece of the college skiing pie, it's still Killington that has the largest portion. More than 6000 students have spent one of the last four weeks at Killington's annual skifest. Sponsored by Miller Lite and Chevrolet, the festival has everything from skier obstacle course races to '60s and '70s revival parties. And, whether or not there's anything from the '70s that deserves to be revived, the kids seem to have fun, to drink a lot of beer and to ski a little on the side.

The reason that Killington is so popular among singles and college students has a lot to do with its extensive nightlife. The ski area is only minutes away from Rutland, Vermont's second largest city, and that puts several low-cost eating and lodging facilities within easy reach of budget-conscious skiers.

We arrived at the base of the Snowdon triple chair at 2 p.m., around the time that the sun was beginning to set. From the lift, the trail that ran underneath the chair, "Conclusion," looked like a fun mogul run. That was our first mistake. Our second mistake was skiing down Conclusion, which had bumps that were in all the wrong places. After gracelessly bouncing our way to the bottom, we got in the car and headed north.

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Despite the poor run that afternoon, Killington does offer some excellent skiing for all levels. The only problem is that it is so spread out. Experts will be more than challenged at "Bear Mountain," and there is plenty of terrain for beginners as well. Of course, some people might find the commercialized scene and number of bars in the Killington area a draw back. An hour and a half north lies Sugarbush, with fewer bars and singles but an equivalent amount of snow and great trails.

Sugarbush

Sugarbush is really two areas, Sugarbush and Sugarbush North, connected only by a shuttle bus. The main area is one of the grandfathers of Vermont skiing. Trails such as "Stein's Run," named after Olympic racer Stein Erikson, are still among the most challenging in Vermont. Although skiers no longer sit on the deck of the Valley House Base Lodge and watch Stein ski his run, spectators will certainly see top-rate skiers and some show-offs who should have stayed on the intermediate trails. Without doubt, Sugarbush is for the serious skier.

At a time when other mountains were starting to condominiumize, Sugarbush had already built the massive Sugarbush Village near its base. When development time came in the late 1970s, Sugarbush bought neighboring Glen Ellen and renamed it Sugarbush North. After spending a considerable sum to upgrade the northern partner, Sugarbush now has two areas each of which is major on its own.

Arriving only a half-hour before the lifts closed, we quickly got on Sugarbush North's Mountain double chair and then descended the "Cliffs," a reasonably steep trail with the only real powder we'd seen all day. It was a run that doesn't happen every day; surrounded by the few other skiers who had gotten one of the last chairs up, we took our time, appreciating the scenery, the powder and how tired our legs were getting.

Sugarbush, too, has implemented a college ski week program. Sponsored by Orangina and Merrill Lynch, the activities are pretty much the same as at the other mountains. Additionally, Sugarbush attracts many students from nearby colleges such as the University of Vermont.

Although its excellent trails are probably the mountain's main drawing point, the area dining and night life run a close second. Geared more toward yuppies in their late twenties than college students, many of the bars are nonetheless fun for the college set.

Finishing our run at Sugarbush North we headed to the base lodge's bar where a group of college students was awaiting the snow volleyball award ceremonies. To the strains of Pink Floyd, the Grateful Dead and other blasts from the past, the fairly mellow students were sipping $1.50 beers and preparing for the parties that evening.

Heading home we decided not to rate the best or worst of the day. The snow was the best in years, the skiing was exciting and varied; and the people who guided us around the various mountains were a lot of fun. Some of the areas offer more trails for experts, some have better bars and others offer special deals. In general, the college ski festivals have ended, but call around to see if any are still happening.

Skiing is more than a simple winter sport; it's a complete vacation. Combined with the off-trail activity, the rum and cider and the warm nights in a ski lodge, it can be a relaxing way to spend a few days between classes or just for a day trip.

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