This category is filled almost entirely by Boston eateries. When you've got the bucks and the inclination, there are a few outstanding places for steak and all the fixings. Durgin Park (340 Faneuil Hall; Government Center 'T' stop) is actually not a huge splurge, and it boasts probably one of the best, juiciest prime ribs in Boston. But beware: the waitresses are renowned for their rudeness--it's a prerequisite for the job as well as a part of the place's supposed charm. Slightly more upscale is The Chart House (60 Long Warf; Aquarium 'T' stop). The setting is warm and tasteful without pretension--wood everywhere, low lighting and not too much noise. Everything--from the clam chowder to the chocolate desserts--is solid, satisfying, and not a huge strain on the pocketbook.

ETHNIC

If there's one thing that rivals the preeminence of sandwich spots in the Square, it's Chinese food, clearly the best of the possible international fare. The Hong Kong (1236 Mass. Ave.) is easily the best-known and most flamboyantly colored Chinese restaurant in the Square. The Kong's food, especially the Peking Ravioli, is best when sampled alongside one of the exotic drinks. Kong food is also good late at night when every other place is closed. Wei Tai (95 Winthrop St.) and Ta Chien (10 Eliot St.), under the same management, have the Square's best Chinese food, with the atmosphere at the latter giving it top billing. Go to either with a lot of people for a moderately priced dinner or a good Sunday brunch. The Yenching (1326 Mass. Ave.) is perhaps the Square's most centrally located Chinese joint, but because it doesn't take credit cards and doesn't have the heavy drinking atmosphere of the Kong, it doesn't seem to attract much of a Harvard crowd. Yet the food is good, the beer is easy to get, and the prices aren't too bad.

For other international buffs, there are a number of places to choose from. The only one that serves real schnitzel is The Wursthaus (4 JFK St.). It's also where you can catch President Bok eating his daily breakfast. And, if that doesn't tempt you, try the better-than-average deli selections and beers from more than 30 countries. For Greek food there's Skewers (92 Mt. Auburn St.) and The Acropolis (1600 Mass. Ave). Neither place is too fancy or expensive, and both serve authentic dishes. For Italian, there's a decent place toward Central Square; La Groceria (853 Main St.), which specializes in North Italian cuisine. For Japanese fare, there's Roka (Eliot St.) a small spot that gets raves from sushi addicts. Also check-out the Square's newcomer Cafe Sushi (1105 Mass. Ave). The place sounds French, but the food is authentic and not too expensive. For Mexican fans, there's cafeteria-style (and -priced) Paco's Tacos (50 JFK St.). Another fast food spot is Tacomaker (JFK across from the Galeria), which offers 99-cent specials. For decent eats, La Pinata (16 Eliot St.) isn't bad and is cheap. Better is Casa Mexico (75 Winthrop St.), which is also correspondingly higher-priced, but at least the burritos are worth digging into.

Tucked away behind Elsie's is Ching Hua Garden (24 Holyoke St.). This place looks like a real dive but has good food, good service and good prices. And they take credit cards. There's also Young and Yee (27 Church St.), but this place has never been especially popular among undergraduates.

ICE CREAM

It's been said that Harvard admissions officers sometimes attempt to convince prospective freshmen that by coming to Harvard they'll have access to the best ice cream anywhere. The Square is certainly the ice cream capital of Massachusetts and maybe of the nation. With eight different stores within a three-block radius, on some days it's hard to walk down the street without knocking into someone carrying an oreo ice cream cone or one of those little plastic dishes that sport a mixed concoction of fabulous flavors and chewy, nutty, crunchy bits. Moreover, most of the ice cream stores sport a wide variety of flavors that you won't find in most parts of the nation. For example, flavors ranging from cantalope to ginger snap to Snickers are not unusual. It might sound a bit strange at first, but just about everyone takes to the new flavors instantly. The real problem is not getting someone to try them, but rather to keep yourself from constantly dishing out the $1.15 or so for a small cone.

Steve's (31 Church St.) used to be the top dog, with mix-ins and its own line of T-shirts and hats. But when former owner Steve Herrell sold the store and founded Herrell's (15 Dunster St.), he did his old store one better. (At least most ice cream afficionados seem to think so.) You're more likely to stand in a line of tourists at Steve's, since everybody has heard of the granddaddy of them all. At Herrell's, however, you can sample a variety of less exotic, but deliciously sweet, ice cream without dealing with the crushing crowds. Steve's/Herrell's dissidents will insist that Emack and Bolio's (1310 Mass. Ave) is the best in the Square. There's a lot of truth to their argument. Try the chocolate-and-Health-bar-dipped gourmet cones. On the other hand, if you go more for the simpler flavors, there's Baskin Robbins (1230 Mass. Ave). Neon-lit Haagen Daz (in the Galeria) is fine if you've got money and you're not interested in volume. Brigham's is the Howard Johnson's of the Square, with fewer flavors and cheaper prices. Bailey's (21 Brattle St.) is good for old-fashioned ice cream parlor ambiance and real hot fudge sauce, which is well worth trying. Uncle Bunny's (962 Mass. Ave) is pretty good if you're up for the 10-minute trek. The Gelateria Gluseppe (85 Mt. Auburn St.) is close by and offers light sherbet-like ice cream that is much smoother than the traditionally made ice cream. At Toscannini's (899 Main St.) in Central Square you can enjoy ice cream that many say is not only worth the walk but a cut above even the Square's top draws. They have the classic seven flavors in a not-too-sweet and perfectly smooth mixture.

PIZZA

If it's really good pizza that you're after, follow route 91 for about two hours south to New Haven, because you picked the wrong Ivy. As famous as the Square is for its ice cream, its pizza leaves much to be desired. There are, however, a few bearable places, and some of them would probably satisfy even the most die-hard Eli.

Pinnochio's (74 Winthrop St.): This place seems to change owners as often as the seasons, but the current proprietors have made a good stab at it. Their slices are a bit expensive, but pies are reasonable and not bad tasting Cafe Avventura (The Garage): The best deal in the Square for the best thin-crust pizza around. A slice for only 65 cents, and you can get a 10 percent discount with your student i.d. Pizzeria Regina (4-10 Holyoke St.): Ever since Avventura's came around, this place has become less popular, which is unfortunate since it has a good atmosphere, and there's a bar upstairs. Pizzeria Uno (22 JFK St.): The most restaurant of the Square pizza places, Uno is a yupscale place, complete with veggie dips and other interesting appetizers. The pizza isn't bad either. Ruggies (Mass. Ave next to Store 24): Believe it or not, English pizza is not bad once you get used to it. Avoid the Baby Prince size though, as you will pay a lot and get very little.

BARS/ENTERTAINMENT

A phrase often used to describe the College is also applicable to the bars around Harvard Square: the hardest thing about them is getting in. But, while the presence of an off-duty cop or huge bouncer in from of big state warnings can be frightening to the neophyte Square drinker, the atmosphere inside most establishments is pleasant and easygoing.

The closest thing Harvard has to a campus pub is the two-year-old Picadilly Filly (123 Mt. Auburn St.). Crowded, not too large and not too bright, you'll find more people you know in this inexpensive pickup joint than you'll find in your dorm. If, on the other hand, you prefer a place that makes Jiffypop popcorn while you fill up with cheap beer at the bar, then visit the Bow and Arrow (Bow St. next to Baskin Robbins). On Wednesday nights, you'll find most of the Harvard undergraduate population here, and you can you drink for hours on a minimum amount of cash. Other nights, the Bow adopts a more local flavor, and the crowd turns mostly to rooting for the Celtics.

Right around the corner is The Hong Kong (1236 Mass. Ave), Harvard's little touch of Trader Vic's, the famous Polynesian restaurant. You should proceed immediately up the stairs, past the off-duty cops and the bouncers and dive into one of the Kong's famous Scorpion bowls. After one night of bowl consumption, you'll probably find out that the Square's largest drink contains little alcohol, a big price tag, and packs an awful headache with only a minor buzz. But like Steve's ice cream, you have to try it at least once in your lifetime.