China watchers identify Cambridge's Chinese restaurants not only by the food but also by political alignment. Supporters of the People's Republic take their business to the Maoist Yen Ching, while Madame Chaing and Taiwan nationals eat at the House of China on Eliot St. For the non-aligned, both places have some good dishes. House of China's lunch specials are better than the Yen Ching's buffet, which is overstuffed with celery. But Szechuan meat sauce noodles and spicy chicken are great at the Ching. Lucky Gardens, a long walk up Western Ave., is also pretty good, and the moo goo gai pan at the Hong Kong is edible, and available late at night.

Pancho Villa raids the Casa Mexico every now and again, a good but overpriced place on Winthrop St. Iruna's, further on down Boylston, served Spanish food to the Abraham Lincoln Brigade. Some of their dishes are very good, but beware the bland paella. At Paco's Tacos, you'll often see Colonel Sanders chewing the fat and enchiladas with Paco.

Bulldog Brower earned his awesome reputation wrestling with the food at Tommy's, an Armenian-American greasy spoon on Mt. Auburn, a spot of frenetic late night activity annex to the Cambridge Press Club.

Wimpy shovels in the best burgers in Boston from Bartley's Burger Cottage when he's in town. Buddy's Sirloin army mess appeal attracts the likes of Gomer Pyle.

Euell Gibbons chows down at Conscious Cookery behind Coolidge Bank, where the Sikhs serve up wholesome health food on the You-Can't-Fool-Mother-Nature principle. Especially good are the avocado and alfalfa sprouts sandwich, and the generous salads. In the same area, Sails serves tuna with good taste Charlie. At Grendel's next door, Hrothgar isn't welcome, but Beowulf comes anyway, for the chocolate fondue and salad bar.

Ahmed serves Moroccan food to duelling ayatollahs, but less wealthy types frequent the Hungry Persian on Eliot St.-inexpensive, good Middle Eastern food. Sophia Loren stuffs herself with Formaggio's thick and creamy sandwiches in the Garage, (boursin and roast beef on homemade bread and their chocolate chip cookies are perennial favorites) while Suzanne Somers gets her cheesecake from Rowinsky's on Mt.Auburn St.

Star watchers look for Henry A. Kissinger '50 at the Rendezvous on Holyoke St. where he lunches on the Vietnamese special and reminisces with the owner, a former South Vietnamese diplomat. JFK '40 and his progeny eat at Elsie's on Mt. Auburn St., a lunch spot so famous the tour buses stop there. Elsie's is probably the best lunch bargain around-generous helpings, good low prices. Everyone who's anyone has the roast beef or turkey deluxe. (TD to the initiated).

Local flamenco dancers fill up across from the K-school at La Pinata, where the food runs less than a dollar per gallon.

Libation

When food is not substantial enough, and you want drink, beware of those who check ID's. Gov. Edward J. King has spoken; you have to be 20 years old to imbibe. But with false credentials or a mature visage, you may have your pick of the bars and patrons.

Father's Six, on Bow St., is Billy Carter's favorite Cambridge pissing hole. Father's wins the daily Paddy Wagon Award for obnoxious heavies.

Madame Rosa resides in the Hong Kong on Mass. Ave, along with Dracula who enjoys the bats, and Sid Vicious who enjoyed the company and his cat there. The Kong's famous upstairs bar is also the home of the Cambridge Press Club.

P.G. Wodehouse wouldn't tipple atOne Potato, Two Potato but you might find Archie C. Epps III, dean of students, at the Mass Ave, bar and restaurant. It serves sodas and Bloody Marys in 16-oz. measuring cups. Wodehouse can be found at 33 Dunster St, a book-lined haven with a stained glass window portraying Richard Nixon and a very complete salad bar.

For his latest book, Studs Terkel interviewed the patrons of Charlie's Kitchen. Archie Bunker and cheeseburgers, across from the new MBTA station.

Martin Kilson, professor of Government, opens the Casablanca every day. The atmosphere is slick, but the food is taste and reasonable, and the drinks are all right.