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A Glutton's Guide to the Square

54 Boylston St.

The Patisserie Francaise, hidden in Boylston Street's collection of below street-level restaurants, offers relief from the madding undergraduate crowd common in Square restaurants. In exchange for somewhat expensive prices, the Patisserie provides several varieties of croissants, coffee, sandwiches and pastry. And if you are fortunate to find a seat it is yours for as long as it takes you to read the paper or write a portion of your current manuscript.

Su-Shiang

158 Prospect St.

If Su-Shiang can be translated into English, it probably means "spicy." The food there is quite unlike what you've eaten at most other conventional Chinese restaurants. It's not that the chef at the Su-Shiang gets a sadistic threill out of seeing his customers reach for the water glass, but rather that authentic Szechuan-Hunam-style food does not have that bland taste that characterizes so many Chinese-American dishes. For the less-than-ambitious, Su-Shiang's menu also offers a multitude of seafood, poultry, beef and pork dishes without the distinctive Szechuan flavor.

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To get a good sampling of Szechuan food without shelling out a lot of money (prices are reasonable but not inexpensive), bring a few friends along with you. The four or five of you will leave fully satiated and most likely stuffed.

So if you're willing to venture a few blocks outside of the Square, your efforts will certainly be rewarded. The Su-Shiang is located at 158 Prospect St., between Central and Inman Squares. Just opened a month ago, Su-Shiang's friendly service (the waiters and the chef will gladly explain what each dish is and how it is prepared), relaxed atmosphere and tasty food already easily surpasses that of any Chinese restaurant in town.

Underdog

6 Bow St.

If its only distinction were that Underdog is the only place nearby where you can get a Hebrew National hot dog, that would enough. But there's more: a wide variety of excellent sandwiches--including such delicacies as hot New York pastrami, corned beef, and combinations thereof--homemade desserts and other nasherai.

Prices may seem high at first glance, but your taste buds will overrule your wallet by a longshot. The people are unusually friendly, and Underdog's pinball prices are lower than most places in the Square. (It also has the distinction of having a copy of Outer Space, undoubtedly the best machine ever made.)

If you're passing by, you might also check out the Underdog cart in Forbes Plaza--regular hot dogs only, but the same high quality.

Young and Yee

27 Church St.

Young and Yee is at least the second best Chinese Restaurant in the Square, and given the Hong Kong's unreliability Young and Yee may well be number one. Young and Yee's food may not be great, but it is always reliable. The chow mein is passable but the best food Young and Yee has to offer are the specialties listed on the back of the menu. The servings are generous in size and relatively low in price. Two people can eat there for about $5.

Zum Zum

9 Brattle St.

Nothing is particularly pleasant about Zum Zum, but it's quick and it's cheap and you might want to have your lunch there if you are ever in a rush. The standard fare is a 55-cent frankfurter which is as good as any for sale in the Square. Sandwiches are also served; if you are not in the mood for a hot dog, order the pastrami on a bun. The side dishes at Zum Zum beef up what might otherwise be a skimpy meal. Light and dark beer is served, but if you are on the wagon Zum Zum's birch beer will do.

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