Aug? Indian soldiers, San Marcos

This is where the guerrillas are. There are soldiers everywhere in town. I came to visit someone who might have guerrilla contacts, but I am being watched much too closely. There are no tourists here. I might put him in danger if I go to him, besides, I'm scared. I'm leaving tomorrow. Soldiers ask politely what brings me to town, and I say I am an archaeologist. They seem to believe me, but they give me some funny looks. No one ever looked more the romantic guerrilla than I, with beard and backpack.

All the Rangers that I've seen have been Indians, and all the officers whites. I've talked with several of the Rangers, and though they all carry machine guns, they are generally friendly, and easier to talk to than the peasants. They laugh easily, look into my eyes with that "man to man" look, and after a few moments, they're touching me when they make a point. Sometimes as we stood talking, smoking cigarettes, admiring young boys would gather. The soldiers were obviously proud of their sophistication. They would tell me of other North American friends, usually soldiers, and would ask me to write them.

I had a conversation with a young soldier named Hilio. He is in the paratroopers. He entered when he was twenty and has been in four years. He said he was not drafted, but was offered the chance to go, and was pleased to take it. He fought in Zacapa in '68. He is friendly, honest, and very religious. I was shown a Rosicrucians pamphlet (in Spanish) about the Mystic Life of Christ, and tried hard to appear interested. I offer him beer, but he takes a coke.

"When I was in the Panama Canal Zone (Ft. Gulick), I met many North Americans."

How long had he been there? "Just a month. It was part of a special training program, under Special Forces, 8th division. You know, here we do all the lectures only by talking. There they have movies."

"Were these Green Berets?" I wanted to know. "Yes, Boinas Verdes. "

I asked if there had ever been any trouble, and fights between the two groups. "No. Never any problems. Imet many nice people, and had many good friends. They were just like brothers to me ( puro hermanos ). They had all kinds of experts there. Some, with beards just like you, they were from Florida-specialists in alpine climbing, diving, and demolition."

Had the Army life been good for him? "Yes, pretty good. It taught me to read and write and be a medic. Now I can get a good job."

How much longer would he stay in? "Only six months now, and I'm glad to get out. Sometimes I get so sick of killing, and sad, and sorry. Sometimes I pray to God about it."

What a vicious circle he is in. A white god sends him out to kill guerrillas fighting for his people, some of them are his people, and when he feels there is something wrong, he has only to go to that same god again. I wonder how many of them feel the contradiction this strongly. The army has been the source of the best leadership (both Turicos and Yon Sosa were U. S,-trained), but most are not close to such a flip-flop. For most young Indian men, the Army offers the only opportunity for dignity and a relatively decent life. Three meals a day, movie lectures at Ft. Gulick, the big PX in the Sky, fascinating, macho, Green Beret instructors, and most importantly, a gun, which any man, even a North American, will respect.