At the same time there is unemployment. Mayor Kan'an emphasizes this. He admits that there is always a job shortage in Nablus. But previously a man would travel to Amman, Kuwait or Saudi Arabia to find employment, often sending money to his family which remained on the West Bank. Now the frontiers are closed. Naturally the Arabs hold the Jews responsible for this economic hardship.

Mayor Kan'an doubts that the new borders, however temporary, have improved Israeli-Arab relations. He stresses that business contact with the Israelis is a necessity for the West Bank. But he believes that the political climate excludes any contact on a human level: "We Arabs are living under an occupation and are just waiting for the Israeli army to withdraw." According to him the Jews are not helping the cause of peace either: "They are enjoying their victory; they are living on the territory they always dreamt about having." I ask the mayor what will help the cause of peace. He replies that the only solution is the total withdrawal of the Israeli forces.

But will that bring peace, I ask. He says that it will prove the goodwill of Israel and also, that it means that Israel is not thinking of annexation. But how does this help the peace, I say, and remind him of the common Arab position--unwillingness to accept Israel's existence even if she with-draws her forces. "Everyoe is affected by goodwill," Mr. Kan'an answers, though he admits that Nasser will not accept Israel's existence until the rights of every single Palestinian Arab are given back.

Mayor Kan'an emphasizes towards the end of our conversation that he feels no personal hatred towards the Jews of Israel. Another inhabitant of Nablus, a prominent businessman, assures me that the Jordanians had always been brought up to hate the Jews. As a result of the war, he finds a general change of opinion about Israel and the Israelis among the people of Nablus. "We knew nothing about Israel before and know everything now," he says. He himself has been to Tel Aviv, Yaffo, Natanya and Haifa and finds the cities "nice." He calls Israel a really European country.

He likes the fact that little or no distinction is made between soldiers and officers in the Israeli army. The people he calls "kind and gentle, not bad at all compared to what we used to hear on the radio." Yet he has just published a book which is not at all pro-Israeli. He emphasizes that Israel has to go back to the old borders. Is that a condition for peace, I want to know. "No, the Palestinian question has to be solved as a condition for peace."

Later he introduces me to a friend who was born in Lydda, near Tel Aviv, and who wants his house back. He lost it when he and his family left because of the war of '48. Would he be content with a reasonable financal settlement, I ask. "No, he wants his house and his land. No money."

Just before I leave he quickly adds: "And remember, we can't shake hands with Israel either as long as the gun is still in their hands."

It is clear that the removal of the physical barrier between Arabs and Israelis is bound to bring about the gradual disappearance of many stereotupes and prejudices. The existing trade between Israel and the West Bank is actually causing some kind of dialogue. The parties now understand better where they stand--diametrically opposed to one another.

Arabs and Israelis continue to live side by side. But there is little love lost and little softening of positions