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New Chemise Spells "Subtle Sex"

One would normally expect a skirt to be narrower near the waistline and get progressively wider until the hem. Well, not any more. The fashion experts have something in evening gowns that they call the balloon look, or the harem style. The latter name is particularly appropriate; one of these creations would feel right at home with Delacroix's "Algerian Women."

The harem skirt, starts getting wider from waist to hem. But it reverses its course at mid-stream, or rather midthigh, and narrows to just below the knees where it is gathered onto a hemband. The circumference of this circular hemband leaves enough room for the legs, but not much more.

However, if you're the type of girl with enough beauty, personality, and guts to go to a dance in an inverted Japanese lantern, by all means do so; you're bound to attract attention. But then, with all that beauty, personality, and guts, you would probably attract attention anyhow.

In a more modified version, the balloon look adds a graceful and bouffant touch to the newest evening dress. On a longer, fuller skirt than the exotic "harem," the ballooning simply means that the hemline is gathered slightly. The effect is attractive--different and eye-catching, but not overwhelming. It's the most interesting innovation in evening gowns in a long time, and will undoubtedly make a hit on the dance floor this holiday season.

Velvet Touch

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All socializing and no sport makes Jane a dull girl. Since few moderns take their exercise a la ancient Sparta, the designers have created sportswear for action and relaxation.

Velvet tapered slacks are doing the legwork for the season, with black, red and cobalt blue the leading colors. Also popular are wool, cordoroy, cotton and dacron, and even silk fabrics in slack and toreador pants. Tweeds, stripes, and patterns complete with solids for space on the sportswear racks in the Boston area stores.

On the topside, the dressmaker-style bulky sweater holds forth this year. Cardigans and slipovers with collar accents come in white, black, red, and grey as well as a variety of pastel shades. The patterned ski sweater with pointed collar or turtle neck is also popular, and the crew-necked Shetland is a perennial college girl favorite.

The three-quarter length car-coat is a 1957 headliner. The Vespa and Lambretta girls are so fond of these coats that many people are now calling them "scooter coats."

The Anne David manufacturers have a model in black or natural water-repellent fabric with wool knitted cuffs, collar, and button panel. The most intriging feature of this particular carcoat, though, is the cotton quilted lining.

In the black coat, the lining is black and orange, perhaps in commemoration of this year's Ivy League football champions. Anyway, the design is composed of the shields of Italian city-states-- Bologna, Veneza, Pisa, Lucca, Milano, Firenze, Grossto, and even stormy Trieste. Keep warm and learn geography at the same time.

The lining of the natural-colored model is not quite so unique. The little dots of white, green and black on deep rose resemble hundreds of crawling ladybugs. But at least the color is closer to Harvard's crimson.

Wear a Cliffie

Perhaps aware that the trenchcoat is the uniform of the Radcliffe girl, one manufacturer has produced a coat called the "Radcliff" (spelled without an "e"). The promotion manager obviously did not graduate from Harvard nor from Radcliffe. The coat is a Valmeline Import, made in West Germany.

The "Radcliff" is an unbelted trench-coat in natural color. It has concealed buttons under a front panel, large pockets, and a pointed collar. For extra warmth, it boasts a button-in lining of loden green wool.

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