To the systematic botanist, this region, which has never been glaciated or was glaciated only during an early glacial advance, is dramatically interesting; for, as we are now learning to expect, in such regions there are hundreds of plants now living which are so conservative that they have never migrated into the adjacent regions recently covered by Wisconsin ice.
Characteristics Sharply Defined
The species which constitute this relic-flora must have lived right through the last glacial period where they are; and a study of the other regions of the Northern Hemisphere which were not invaded by the last ice-sheets has shown an exactly parallel situation. In these spots, then, we have relies of an ancient flora which in regions of very recent glaciation has been completely exterminated. From a purely evolutionary point of view, these old plants are particularly interesting because they are species with very sharply defined characteristics and are now so fixed in their fundamental characters that they show little, in any, variation.
250 Species Brought Back
During the past summer, aided by a grant from the Milton Fund for Research, I spent practically all of July and August and part of September hunting for more of these endemic and relic species on or near the Long Range of Newfoundland and, although it will take all winter to work out the results at the Gray Herbarium, it is safe to state that my party, including Mr. Bayard Long of the Philadelphia Academy of Sciences, and my former student. John M. Fogg, Jr., Ph.D. '29, brought back more than 250 such species, many of them hitherto quite unknown any-where in the world. These plants were excessively localized, growing as small colonies on mountain tablelands or crests or at lower levels on cliffs and gravelly barrens.
Country is Unmapped
The thrill of exploring a country which is practically unmapped, which the tourist has not invaded, is itself tremendous; but when, in following the bases of fantastically weathered slopes, such as those of Western Head, or ascending pathless mountain-ides by working one's way (always in the face of rock-slides) up the precipitous walls, as at Tucker's Head on Bonne Bay, one comes suddenly upon a plant occupying an area of only a few square rods and never before known to botanists, the excitement is intense.
Specimens are Pressed
These "thrillers" are so numerous in western Newfoundland that the field-botanist is always on the qui vive, and it is a rare and poor day when novel plants of great scientific interest are not brought in. Then follows a full day, or perhaps two days, indoors, putting the treasures into press and starting their proper drying, before another active day of field work can be undertaken. Often enough, after stretching every muscle and testing every nerve in the ticklish ascent and descent of successive cliffs, we reach home with our knee-joints so lame and stiff that no one utters a single word of complaint at the enforced inactivity of the succeeding day!
Approach Glacial Conditions
Although the highest tablelands and slopes of western Newfoundland have had no recent glacial cap, some of them are today not very far removed from a local glacial condition. Practically every summer, compact snowbanks lie on the northern-facing slopes; and it is evident that, by a very slight reduction of the mean annual temperature these snowfields would be transformed into alpine glaciers.
Snow Fields are Dangerous
Much of the joy of exploration in western Newfoundland consists in attempting to cross these snow-fields, a feat practically impossible unless one cuts steps in the icy masses; for although looking safe enough, these long-weathered snow-fields have a glassy surface, and it is easier to fall than to walk upon them. The photograph of my two companions at the lower edge of such a snow-field illustrates an experience which can be enjoyed on hundreds of slopes in late August after the melting days of summer are past.