We did not have time to go to the theatre, but understood that the attendance was full. A wide range of attractions was advertised,-Beethoven's Ninth Symphony was announced on a very large display poster; and other announcements offered Till Eulenspiegel, Lohengrin, Fledermaus, a wide variety of modern plays, including Erdgeist and Pandora's Box, of unsavory notoriety, and several Revues.
Shortage of coal is reflected in poor heating of trains below first class, and presumably in more important ways. There is some economy in lighting, but nothing startling. The high grade hotels are warm enough to be comfortable.
German Pulp Displace American
With regard to the Paper industry, we can speak only of a few mills and a few related facts. German pulp has pretty much driven American out of the French market within a short time. The one large Pulp and Newsprint mill that we visited, in Northern Germany, was running both its News machines and its total equipment--when we were there, and another large news machine was being installed. The mill was the last word in design, was a model of order and cleanliness, and was in the best Paper of condition. All the wood for the pulp and ground-wood mill came from German points. The Workmen took of their caps to the Director or Manager exactly as they used to do before the war. We were received with the utmost courtesy.
A mill building Paper- mill Machinery, situated in Central Germany, represented the old regime where the manager's house was built into the mill, and the courtyard was laid out as a garden, with walls of Southern exposure supporting wall-growth fruit trees. The Manager's office was more homelike than office-like, and we were offered light refreshments, and the Manager's automobile placed at out disposal for a forty-mile trip where railroad connections were poor. The departments of this mill that were visited were in good condition and seemed to be running on the day of our visit at or near full capacity. No one at this mill spoke English, and it may be said in general that a knowledge of English cannot be presumed to exist except at the largest plants.
At another very large mill in the same line near Cologne we did not get beyond the office, but found that the best that could be done on a machine on which we asked a proposal was nine months on account of prior orders. The chief owner of this mill, together with his brother who spoke English, spent the day with us, and took us to two writing-paper mills where their machinery could be Seen. Here also we were treated with the utmost courtesy.
In the course of a long automobile ride we a saw a very interesting system of open brown-coal workings, in the district near Hallo. This "Braunkohl" is taken from thick deposits by steam shovels, and is sent in various directions by cable ways, some of considerable length, to the plants where by-products are recovered and the carbon residue pressed into fuel briquettes. Roughly half of the coal burned in Germany is processed before being used as fuel. On this trip one of the large Haber process plants for fixation of atmospheric nitrogen was seen from the road. It was between half a mile and a mile long and had thirteen chimneys eight of which were showing smoke. There were some stagings around the newer end, but it cannot be said whether construction was going on.
We visited one of the largest dye and chemical works, where we were received with the same courtesy as in the other cases. We could not estimate the degree of activity in this plant since our visit took us only to the Laboratory. In the central and Southern German plants visited, the men gave the military salute--or occasionally no formal salute-to the manager rather than taking of their caps, but we did not see enough factories in the two sections to give any particular general value to an observation of this kind.
Refuse to Admit War Responsibility
We heard comparatively few opinions bearing on the German attitude toward the war, but these of course reflected only the views of the individuals uttering them, and there were not enough of them to warrant generalization. These particular individuals, with one exception, considered that the war was forced upon Germany by other nations; the single dissenting individual thought that the war was forced upon the German people by the German rulers for whom he expressed bitter condemnation.
As noted at the beginning, this is merely a series or superficial observations, too slight to afford a basis for any deductions or conclusions. We saw nothing that would lead us to question the validity of the various thoughtful accounts of economic and social conditions of which appropriate periodicals have recently carried a full share