When I signed on to spend my summer outside of Durban, South Africa, I knew that soccer would be a major part of my experience. Even as an American who, before arriving in South Africa at the end of May, could count the number of international soccer players I could name on two hands, I could appreciate that the first-ever World Cup on African soil would be a big deal. I just didn’t know how big.
The country has been absolutely overcome with World Cup fever, and I decided I didn’t want to miss out. So last Saturday, a friend and I decided to shell out the big bucks and get tickets to one of the Durban-hosted matches—the group-play contest between the Netherlands and Japan.
I’ve been to big sports games before, both at Harvard and for my hometown pro teams. I had thought that the atmosphere at the 2004 ALCS game between the Red Sox and Yankees I attended would be hard to top. But the World Cup was an experience that was totally and completely unique. I had never seen so many supporters dressed in such elaborate costumes—Japanese fans in full traditional garb, banging on drums, and a group of a dozen Dutch supporters decked out in orange flight attendant outfits, complete with orange platform boots for the ladies. From the pre-match ceremony to the final whistle, the stadium never stopped buzzing with the sounds of cheers and vuvuzelas. There were flags everywhere—and not just Dutch and Japanese flags. One proclaimed “Forever England,” which I thought a bold move considering England’s dreadful performance in a 0-0 draw with Algeria the night before, and there was also a Swedish flag hanging below the second section. Sweden didn’t qualify for the tournament, but it can take solace in the fact that it’s still got some incredibly proud supporters.
The game ended with a 1-0 win for the Netherlands—a victory that made the Dutch the second team to guarantee its spot in the round of 16. My friend and I had been hoping for a goalfest, and even though we didn’t get it, it was a game that was engrossing all the way through. Never again will I knock soccer as a dull game based on its lack of scoring. And though the game seemed too short after the weeks of buildup and the money spent on the ticket, it was worth every penny.
Though I won’t be in the stadium for any more matches, South Africa is still an incredible place to be this month. Vuvuzelas play throughout the countryside all day, every day, and every Bafana Bafana match is an excuse for the country to take a three-hour break and watch some soccer. It’s been extraordinary to watch this country come together in pride over hosting such a major international event, and I can’t wait to be a part of it as the knockout rounds unfold.
