Bathed in blue light, musical legends gaze down in bas relief from the ceiling at House of Blues, welcoming a crowd worthy of the dishware which asserts "Unity in Diversity." Nonetheless, one won't find the usual Harvard yuppies-to-be here. Perhaps they are scared by the motto in foot-high capital letters above the bar: "The Wages of Sin is Death," choosing to frequent the dens of iniquity that are other Harvard bars.

If the Ice Cream Bash atmosphere of Grafton has gotten stale, head toward Winthrop Street and find a place that truly merits its name. In fact, everything from the tablecloths to the Blues Brothers poster and the server's nail polish is blue.

If one's companion heads to the restroom (where the vending machine dispenses 50-cent plastic spiders), the Vampire Lestat on the stairwell wall will be more than enough company. However, the garlic content of the Tequila Lime Crawfish ($10.50) will keep such evils at bay.

The Delta cuisine ranges in price from $5.95 for a Creole pizza to $19.95 for a mesquite-grilled veal chop. Make sure to sample the Rosemary Cornbread ($2.95) and the Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($1.95) Boasting prices that compete with blander Square venues like Brew Moon, House of Blue's sense of style makes it a welcome change from these stand-bys.

The New Orleans BBQ Shrimp appetizer ($7.95) is the highlight of the evening, with a perfectly spiced sauce that is just hot enough to make noses run without eyes tearing. The Curry Calamari ($5.25) is fried, but lightly enough that the folded paper basket stays crisp and the sweet chile sauce highlights the freshness of the seafood.

From the "backyard smokehouse," the uninspired BBQ Chicken and Rib Combo ($10.95), with the choice of three sauces, featured a great cut of meat. But should ribs really be a one-napkin dish?

The succulent pieces of the "Tequila Lime Crawfish" resembled the Holy Roman Empire, since its taste hinted that it contained neither tequila, nor lime, nor fish. But fans of fettucine will be pleased with the generous portion.

"Warning!" blares the dessert menu, threatening addiction to the treats that range in price from three to five dollars. While some may choose the peanut butter pie dressed with a drizzle of European chocolate, the Slice O' Skippy leaves something to be desired. Perhaps if the dry, dense Chocolate Bourbon Cake was mixed with it, the Reeses Peanut Butter Cup effect could redeem both.

The true gem of the menu is the Warm Berry Cobbler, with New England-grown blueberries and raspberries, which are tiny yet satisfy the palate with a wonderful flavor. It wasn't Haagen Dazs, but the oatmeal topping can compensate. Moreover, the dish arrives at the perfect temperature.

The service is excellent, as they manage to maneuver through small aisles with large plates while staying calm. The staff knows the menu, and is helpful and plates without being overbearing. Perhaps the message engraved into the metal of every lamp, "Help ever, Hurt never," has been taken to heart.

The restroom, an amalgam of Woodstock and West Side Story, has graffiti exceeding even the Lamont third floor women's room in its abundance and occasional creativity. If the industrial metal stall doors are supposed to scream Def Leppard to the child of the '80s, then the walls of psychedelic patterns straight out of Fantasia will comfort an older generation.

The background crooning of well-known blues artists is supplemented by closed-circuit TV, which explains each track's history and offers a picture of the album for those who the music inspires to dash across the park to Tower Records after dinner. While the presence of TVs seems incongruous at first, the programming adds a more intellectual note than the sports game currently showing at Grafton or Brew Moon. With tap beers ranging from $3 to $4, a stop at the bar is well within student budgets.

As if the atmosphere needed assistance, the House of Blues often hosts live performances of well-known musicians on their upstairs stage, and every Sunday features three seatings for the famous Gospel brunch. Making a reservation or getting tickets ahead of time is worth the trouble. Call 497-2229 and hope for a spot.