Students waiting with bated breath for savory baked tofu, teriyaki beef tips or the ever-popular white pizza were disappointed last night, as five dining halls welcomed visiting chef Reggie A. Sylvain's version of soul food, Boston-style.

Sylvain, the guru of Bob the Chef's Soul Supreme Restaurant in South Boston, was the first visiting chef to come in a Harvard Dining Services program designed to bring culinary luminaries to the dining halls. He specializes in spicy Southern cuisine with catchy names like "glorified chicken" and "candid yams."

Diners at Eliot, Kirkland, Leverett, Lowell and Winthrop, the site of Sylvania's first efforts last night, reacted enthusiastically to the Boston chef's innovations.

"It makes a difference alter eating months and months of the same food," said Douglass L. Pinkard, a Leverett House tutor. "It was great."

Sylvain's usual haunt, he said, is a place "where people can sit down and relax and en joy jazz and soul music." Though his restaurant is a far cry from usually crowded and noisy Harvard dining halls, the magic of his cuisine translated well to dingy house eateries.

Even macaroni and cheese was transformed by Sylvain's secret spicy ingredient, students said.

"It was slammin'...definitely not Harvard food," said LaVonda M. Williams '93, eating at Winthrop House. "It was made with real cheese and tastes a little like my mom's."

Although Sylvain won't reveal what worked the transformation, students said the marinated chicken was not to be missed.

"The chicken was really good because it tasted like Kentucky Fried Chicken's," said Su-May Lee '94. "It was flavorful."

Speculation abounded about just what the magic spice was. Some diners, after sampling both the marinated chicken and macaroni and cheese, made educated guesses, but no one could pin down the secret.

"Little black specks [on the macaroni and cheese] say to me, 'pepper,'" said Ben Peskoe '94.

Students universally called for a return appearance by Sylvain or another gourmet visitor.

"They should do this more often," said David M. Shull '94.

Michael J. Bacon, Dining Services unit manager for Leverett, said students in the other Houses would be treated to Sylvain's fare tonight at dinner