Due to diverging holiday plans, we were unable to spend this most special of all meals together. Instead, we spend a few minutes comparing our two meals when we got back.

AMBIENCE:

Sonfields': I received a surprisingly warm welcome from the Sonfield family upon arrival. Even the dog gave me a kiss; not your typical restaurant for sure. In fact, that would be in violation of most states' health codes. The decor is a subtle but elegant Tutoresque style, with wooden floors and furniture. The Liberty pewter collection, ethnic rugs, and the Southwestern pottery add an eclectic but tasteful touch.

DC-10: I don't really feel like describing something that most of you should know. The noise, the lines, the crying babies, the saccharine smiles on the cabin crew's faces, that annoying Rhapsody in Blue tune being cranked out, the thought of how a hunk of metal like this can ever get off the ground and stay there for hours on end--basically, a rather nauseating feeling that makes one wonder why life must be so bad just to get somewhere.

BEVERAGES:

Sonfields': Water, wine (from a good year), iced tea, orange juice, milk, coffee, herbal tea.

DC-10: Coke, Sprite, ginger ale, tomato juice, orange juice, apple juice, lemonade, diet Coke, diet Sprite, orange soda, milk, tea, coffee, decaf, root beer, club soda, mineral water, ice water.

And, for a small fee: red wine, white wine (cheapo California vintages), domestic beer, imported beer, vodka, gin, rum, Bailey's, Kahlua, Tequila, whiskey, bourbon, cognac, brandy.

APPETIZERS:

Sonfields': Flat bread with assorted cheeses named after quaint little villages in Europe, red grapes, and a pureed broccoli soup with a touch of apple (quite light, to whet the appetite).

DC-10: United's exclusive label of honey-roasted peanuts. You can even ask for seconds!

MAIN COURSE:

Sonfields': Turkey of course. A seventeen pounder, roasted to a perfect tenderness with a ton of dark meat; the chef's assistant was amazed at how easily he carved the bird. And more than enough for left-overs. Too bad turkey is so dull. But it made a good curry and a good Monte Cristo sandwich the next day.

DC-10: With a choice of either chicken or steak, I was in heaven. However, the steak turned out to be a meatloaf with criss-crossing grill marks on it to make it look like a steak. Unfortunately for United, this seasoned veteran of airplane food was not fooled; I demanded a real steak, and asked the captain to turn the plane around just like in that Colombian coffee commercial. For some reason, they thought that was funny.

SIDE DISHES: