At summer school one can study physical science, social science, natural science and even the history of science. But one can only study culinary science outside the gates of Harvard Yard.

In addition to the usual hamburger joints, pizza places, sandwich shops and egg roll expresses, tasty and sometimes innovative eateries abound, providing ample food for thought.

To find the best hamburger in the Square, trek to Mr. and Mrs. Bartley's Burger Cottage on Mass. Ave. There, undergraduates, Cantabrigians and tenured professors alike have gathered for thirty years amidst the hum of sizzling grease and noisy neighbors.

In addition to its new Ross Perot burger, Bartley's also has an extensive menu of alternative dishes ranging from baked chicken to hummus. All this comes at a price, however: expect to pay $10 for a drink, entree and tip.

More moderately priced burgers can be found at the Square's greasy spoons. Tommy's, located near the Harvard Lampoon on Mt. Auburn Street is a favorite undergraduate hangout during the school year and comes complete with a jukebox. Be sure to try the raspberry lime rickeys. Elsie's (also on Mt. Auburn, across the street from Lowell House) sells a mean lobster roll sandwich, and the tiny tasty on JFK Street is the only restaurant in the Square that's open 24 hours.

For more gourmet fare than the cooks at the tasty can even conceptualize try Formaggio's in the Garage for massive sandwiches with brie cheese, cucumber slices and bean sprouts smashed between thick slices of fresh bread.

If those ubiquitous Golden Arches seem hard to find in the Square, there's a good reason. There are none. Cambridge ordinances restrict fast food franchises in the Square. A severe Big Mac Attack requires a T ride or quick walk to Central or Porter Squares, where a whole complex of fast food outlets awaits.

Pizza

But not all franchises are banned from the square, since the most popular local pizza places are chains: Pizzeria Uno on JFK Street and Bertucci's on Brattle Street. Both restaurants serve their own unique versions of gourmet pizzas--deep dish pies at Uno's and the brick over variety at Bertucci's. But be warned, the wait for tables, especially on weekends, is dauntingly long.

If you're in a hurry, grab a deliciously greasy slice at Pinnochio's on undergraduate hangout. Cafe Avventura in the Garage offers a piece of pizza for a little more than a dollar.

Undoubtedly the best dish of pasta to be found in the area is at the unpretentious, order-at-the-counter Il Panino. Their delicious al dente linguine is more than worth the brisk seven-minute walk along Mass. Ave. toward Central Square.

For more upscale (read: expensive) Italian dining, visit the Spaghetti Club on Winthrop Street or La Groceria, near the Central Square T stop.

Chinese and Asian

Though not a paradise for Chinese food connoisseurs, Chinese fare in the Square is certainly palatable and more than edible.

Chef Chow's. located in the Atrium on Church Street, is widely acknowledged as the best Chinese restaurant in the Square proper. In addition to a succulent General Gau's Chicken, Chow's prepares a scorching scorpion bowl, a liquor and fruit juice concoction that literally comes to the table on fire.