Making a good suit is a 200-step operation. It begins with "perching" or inspecting the 70 yard bolts of 60 inch wide cloth. A cold water shrinkage process follows, and then the wool dries over night on racks. This preserves its natural oils which would otherwise be harmed in drying more quickly, causing a more brittle fabric.

In a process called "decating," the cloth passes over a steam box, shrinking it more, setting it, and putting on a smooth finish. About three yards of cloth (almost the amount required to make a suit) are lost in these processes which less expensive manufacturers ($50-65 suits) often oma.

The cloth, now ready for cutting, is spead in specified lengths on which patterns are laid and marked. Cutters then chop through 20-25 layers of fabric at a time.

Also in a Suit

A great number of different types of cloth, besides the suiting, are included in a suit. Hymo canvas, a wool-goat hair-cotton cloth sewn into the front of the coat, forms the basis of its soft construction. The absence of stiffening gives it a natural feel. The drape-suit coat, on the other hand, incorporates a stiffening which holds it out falsely. Haircloth (long strands of horsehair woven with cotton) is included in the roll of the lapel to insure its springiness.

In buying a suit, consider workmanship, fit and fabric after you have picked a cut and price range. In the lower price ranges inquire about shrinkage and try to find a fabric which will wear well. Higher priced garments have better quality interlinings which make a difference after being worn for a year and dry cleaned. A better coat will be more likely to fit smoothly and not pucker, too. In plaid sport coats, the plaid will be cut so that the sleeves match horizontally with the body of the coat.