Zuzu
474 Massachusetts Avenue.
T: Central.
(617) 864-3278 ext. 237.
Daily 5:30 p.m.–12 a.m.
While Zuzu is certainly much classier than its relative next door, it retains the eclectic soul of The Middle East. The name itself conjures images of exotic foreignness as well as a certain sense of silliness, and the restaurant’s character embodies those qualities. The decor is a modern twist on classic bistro, a mixture of the traditional and the unexpected. The antiquey cranberry-red wood cabinets, the slightly crowded chocolate-brown tables, and the water served from retro glass bottles all evoke the aura of a casual café in the French countryside. At the same time, large colorful canvases, spotlighted with wiggly black wire lamps, dangle across the wall to create a funky, artistic vibe. The room is cheerful and inviting, radiating with a warm glow from the contrasting hues of vivid yellow and deep red. The high ceilings and the mirrors that fully cover one of the walls gives the small and intimate space the illusion of roominess. Huge, fishbowl-like windows create odd—if interesting—exchanged glances between the diners and passersby on Mass. Ave.
On a Saturday night the restaurant was pleasantly bustling without being too noisy. The place has an energetic yet laid-back atmosphere, with a lively and eclectic clientele consisting mostly of people from the neighborhood. A large, adult party gathered around a long table, donning cone-shaped hats to merrily celebrate a birthday.
The affordable wine list hails mostly from Europe and California, with a good range of wines by the glass. The bar also features a selection of intriguing martinis, such as the Arabic Coffee Martini with Stolichnaya Vanil, splashes of Kahlua and Frangelico and a shot of Arabic Coffee; and the Moonlight Martini, a concoction of Bombay Sapphire with Parfait Amour, fresh lemon and a splash of Yellow Chartreuse. Under the guidance of our chipper, black-clad server, we took a bottle of Taurino Notarpanaro, a versatile and smooth Italian red that complemented our adventurous appetite for variety. Alas, as a reminder that we were in Cambridge and not Europe or the actual Middle East, our server dutifully asked us for proper age identification upon ordering alcohol.
The menu featured an interesting mish-mosh of Near Eastern and African flavors blended with western influences. We began our dinner with the “Adas” red lentil soup, a chunky and slightly sour broth served piping hot. While the soup itself was nothing too exciting, the dollop of laveneh cheese was a perfect addition. To continue, we sampled three “mazzas,” small dishes that resembles Spanish tapas. According to the manager, the spanish version was actually a result of the westward spread of Near East influences. We started with a seared salmon, topped with a layer of phyllo pastry. While the salmon was somewhat dry and salty, the accompanying tabouli was delicious when spread over pita bread. We also tried the grape leaves, which our server raved were the best in the area. Although neither of us usually enjoys grape leaves, the ones at Zuzu were soft and delicate, wrapping a delicious mixture of rice and ground vegetables. The triangular pan-fried spinach and cheese dumplings were by far the best of the mazzas. The shell was crisp yet light and oil-less, with flavorful fillings that melted in the mouth.
The entrees exemplify the restaurant’s African-western fusion. The grilled sea bass, a traditionally western dish, was presented atop a bath of tahini. The fish was merely decent upon the first bite, with a distinctly smoky taste. When swirled into the lemon-sesame sauce, however, the combination of flavors added vigor to the dish. The accompaniments of stewed green beans and grilled cubes of red potatoes rounded out the entrée. We also tried the vegetable terrine, which resembled a lasagna composed of layers of mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes, and chickpeas. The grilled vegetables, enveloped in a slightly spicy sauce, resulted in an absolutely delicious combination.
To round off dinner, we had the Bird’s Nest, a dessert that was as much a feast for the eyes as it was for the mouth. The ring of phyllo pastry was crisp and flaky, filled with a delectable crumble of walnuts. Decorating the pastry was a colorful palate of fruits, laced with pistachios and sugar. We also sampled a couple of Zalaaby Fritters, fried balls soaked in sweet syrup.
Service was attentive yet unobtrusive. The manager, Dan, twinkled his eyes and told us to “have fun” as he brought us our dinner. While the food was a thread short of phenomenal, the upbeat atmosphere, the friendly demeanor of the wait staff, and novelty of the unusual cuisine combined together to make a fun and enjoyable evening. With the entrees priced below $20, Zuzu is a reasonably-priced venue for a stylish and fun night out.
