It is finally warm(er) out, the sun is shining and birds are twittering merrily outside open windows. Across campus, everyone renews resolutions to “get into Boston more” just as they have been meaning to do since their arrival at Harvard. Sadly, if the past is any indication, these resolutions mostly won’t hold up. The T does cost $1, after all. Somehow, the good-for-you art at the MFA and overpriced boutiques on Newbury Street aren’t always sufficiently enticing draws. But perhaps Harvard folk are simply not looking in the right places. Some of Boston’s most exciting attractions aren’t on the beaten path. But they are on this tour: a unique and flavorful sampling of the city’s more obscure, more wonderful places for food, drink and other delights in different pockets of the city.
Chinatown Eatery
44-46 Beach St., 2nd Floor
Open daily 10:30 a.m.-1 a.m.
Located off a smutty street in the heart of Chinatown, the decor at Chinatown Eatery is not exactly swanky. The ceiling hangs low over clients’ heads, the lighting is neon, the men taking the orders are rude and abrasive. In fact, clients not in full command of their Mandarin may have a bit of a hard time getting what they want. But it’s worth the struggle. The food here is fantastic as well as cheap. After the pork and noodles, turn to the juice bar stall on the side, where one can get such funky Asian desserts as Almond Tea with Pearl and Tapioca Coconut Milk.
Twentieth Century Limited
73 Charles St.
(617) 742-1031
Open Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.–6 p.m., Sunday noon-5 p.m.
This mecca of gaudiness was founded by a man who spouts wisdom like, “If you go to a party, you should wear a tiara.” Paul Turnberg started this vintage jewelry store 40 years ago and is still behind the counter today, a cluster of rhinestones sparkling in his ear. Twentieth Century Ltd. may be unique in its glamorous genre. According to Turnberg, jewel-starved customers regularly come up from New York, where no such cavern of riches exists. It is not difficult to understand their devotion. Entering the store is like having magically fallen into the gigantic jewelry box of a demi-mondaine. There is not a square inch of space here that does not shimmer or shine. Prices range widely, but the rhinestones are usually affordable.
Make Way for Ducklings Statue
Public Garden (Corner of Beacon Street and Charles Street)
Older people will get a fair amount of abuse from the two- to three-year old crowd, but that’s no reason not to enjoy this bronze procession. Based on the characters in the children’s book Make Way for Ducklings by Robert McCloskey, the statues were cast in 1987 by Nancy Schon. In the book, a mother duck saves her babies from the dangers of the Charles by moving their quarters to the lovely Public Garden and a nice policeman helps her. Visit for a moment of respite.
Caffe Dello Sport
308 Hanover St.
(617) 523-5063
Open daily 6 a.m.-midnight
Droves of North End visitors pass up the Caffe Dello Sport for more touristy spots. The regulars at this cafe/bar are enticed by the promise of “Live Soccer Televised Weekly” and the loud Italian pop playing outside. In the back, where the TV is located, men smoke cigarettes and laugh uproariously at frequent intervals. There is more of a family feeling in front, where clients enjoy gelati and pastries under the old Christmas decorations. The Sport has been going strong since Angelo Cataneo opened it 18 years ago. He can still be spotted in the store, hanging out with “the oldies,” as barman Zaza Nakaitze calls them. Behind the counter and taking orders are his daughter, son and son-in-law. Cakes and pastries flown in daily from Italy are $4 and every sort of coffee known to man is served, as well as most liqueurs.
Trident Booksellers and Cafe
338 Newbury St.
(617) 267-8688
Open daily 9 a.m.-midnight
A haven for the weary shopper at the end of an exhausting trek down Newbury Street, this cafe/bar/bookstore offers physical as well as spiritual revival. The menu proclaims, “The Trident is trying to redefine what success in business might be like following the Buddhist notion of right livelihood.” Said menu also offers “Momos” (traditional Tibetan dumplings) and the “Ying Yang milkshake” (vanilla ice cream and carrot juice), as well as the ever-popular “Perpetual Breakfast.” Be sure not to spill on a yet-to-be-purchased tome about Eastern philosophy.
“the gargoyle shop”
262 Newbury St.
(617) 536-2362
Open 3-6 or 7 p.m (shoppers are encouraged to call first)
The shop has no name, only a small, mysterious sign at the top of a flight of steps on Newbury. “Only those who are meant to come in, come in,” says Louis Gordon, who opened the shop with his brother 14 years ago—but who had actually been aware of the location of his store, he explains, in a previous lifetime. “The gargoyle shop,” as it is known, opens at 3 p.m. to keep out those “who are not meant to come in.” Adventurers lucky enough to venture in at the right time can buy life-sized religious statues, medieval-themed paintings or—if they want something smaller—an eggshell carton filled with tiny skulls.
